Elizabeth Warren, Fashion Muse? – The New York Times


Are Elizabeth Warren and Bernie Sanders the muses of the moment?

This I was wondering while sitting deep in the bowels of New York on an unused J/Z station on Kenmare Street, watching Tom Ford’s version of simplicity go by. Industry-watchers spent a lot of time speculating in the run-up to this fashion week about what form the industry’s politicization and opposition to the current administration would take, but perhaps it’s not so much President Trump who has had a trickle-down effect on the designer mind, but his competition.

I mean, there was Mr. Ford trading the Park Avenue Armory, his usual venue, for the Lower East Side; his preshow quaff of Champagne for Sapporo beer; there he was making … jeans.

Jeans! This is a man who regularly pledges his troth to the art of getting dressed up, a man who was, in his Gucci years, the king of branding, and who later plastered his “TF” all over. Whose first show in New York when he returned from London was at the ultimate uptown canteen, The Four Seasons restaurant, now defunct.

What this meant in his hands were small silk jersey T-shirts, the sleeves rolled up, atop big duchess satin ball skirts. It meant the same tees with teeny-weeny silk basketball shorts that looked kind of like a combination of diapers and tap pants, sharp-shouldered satin jackets, and seamed stockings. And the same tees (three-in-one!) pulled over the head to form a shrug, and paired with silk jersey loungewear — sorry, gowns, caught up with sweatpants elastics bisecting the body in asymmetric lines to create an Aphrodite-going-to-Gold’s-Gym effect. Actually, there were a lot of elastic waists.

Not so much for the men, who got lounge-lizard pastel tuxedos. But back to the elastic waists. They came in culotte suits, and in long, slinky evening skirts that came with molded metallic breastplates or bras for evening. They looked comfortable (the skirts, not the breastplates), if a little schlumpy. It’s not Mr. Ford’s natural form of expression. But give him credit for sensing a change in the weather.

This is fine for designers like Maria Cornejo, of Zero + Maria Cornejo, who never bought into that story anyway — her slightly quilted, softly corseted polka dot suits are for the woman whose brain needs a soft place to land — and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row, whose highly honed brand of minimalism prioritizes the interior and cleanliness of line over exterior signs of aspiration. They make wellness for the closet. The big news in their collection this season: exaggerated pockets on the outside of straight skirts and pants; an evening tank dress composed of almost transparent, overlapping puzzle pieces.