Are Surfer Cafes and Green Markets What a Working-Class Beach Neighborhood Needs?

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You will smell it before you see it. Goody’s, a 30-year-old West Indian restaurant known for its oxtail and jerk chicken, brims with locals, many of Caribbean descent with discerning palates. It is a staple for residents of Arverne, Queens, a tight-knit but often overlooked neighborhood located between Rockaway Beach and Far Rockaway.

On a Saturday afternoon in April, teenagers in Champion sweats and their younger siblings in face paint lined up at the counter, in addition to a few middle-aged men on their way home from work, and a tall woman with long blond braids who asked for her container of fried fish to be left open. That way it wouldn’t be soggy after her 20-minute commute, she explained to the employees in T-shirts that said, “Goody’s, It’s All Good.”

The unofficial business agreement between Rockaway Brewing and Goody’s represents how the lines that have divided a peninsula long defined by race and socioeconomic standing have started to blur. Other entrepreneurs have noticed, and have set up shop in Arverne, too. What remains to be seen is whether this working-class neighborhood, which is over 60 percent black and about 20 percent Latino, will continue to embrace and be embraced by the new business interests steadily moving into the area.

“We don’t see people’s color, just the color of their money,” said Gary Robinson, who owns Goody’s along with his wife, Joan Robinson. They also own and rent out several apartments in Arverne.

“Arverne by the Sea did it right,” said Nicole Russell, who grew up on Beach 64th Street when the neighborhood offered almost no food options for her and her family. “They not only built up our land, but they brought something for the community too, like food and jobs,” she continued. “But we need more.”

“We had the beach all to ourselves,” said Mike Reinhardt, a co-owner of Locals Surf School, about Arverne, just a few years ago. “We knew it was only a matter of time that people would wake up and realize it’s easier to get to this beach by subway than any other beach in Rockaway.”(The A train to Far Rockaway runs directly to Beach 67th Street in Arverne, unlike the Rockaway Beach stops, which require a transfer at Broad Channel.)

Several longtime business owners in Arverne welcome the renewed interest in their neighborhood. “We’ve been a food desert for so long,” said Ms. Russell, who has been making 150 pizzas a week and selling them out of her home since 2014. She calls her business Last Dragon Pizza, and like Goody’s, it also provides takeout for Rockaway Brewing customers during the off-season.

“Making pizza restored my faith in people, because Rockaway is very territorial,” said Ms. Russell. “For a long time, if you lived in Rockaway Beach, you didn’t come down to Arverne — my customers would be like, ‘Where is that?’”

Emmanuel Loncke, 34, who runs Smoothie Haven on Beach Channel Drive next door to his father’s church, Arverne Pilgrim Church, feels similarly to Ms. Russell. “Growing up, people almost forgot we were here,” he said. “But now we’re seeing a lot of growth, commercial property is almost already gone, and I think we have the grounds to produce a small but mighty town.”

Ms. Russell and other residents do have concerns about the rapid development.

Much of the peninsula, she explained, has a history of being overlooked by the city in terms of resources, despite the needs of residents, who range from homeowners still rebuilding after Hurricane Sandy to those living in nearby public housing like Edgemere and Hammel Houses. In addition, the vacant land, especially by the bay, has been used as a de facto dumping ground or years.

“We’re working-class people who clean up after ourselves,” Ms. Russell said, so new residents and those with commercial interests in the area “need to respect the community and the investment we’ve made.”

Ozzie Edwards, 47, who is a member of Community Board 14, said that he is ready for even more growth. “Sure, these establishments are bringing more people and awareness to the neighborhood,” he said. “The coffee shop, the wine bar, these are small luxuries that no doubt benefit all people, but what about more jobs? Can there be another Stop & Shop or big box store that could offer real stability? Like, for example, and I’m just throwing this out there, but if only Amazon came to Rockaway, that would open up thousands of jobs for residents.”

Despite the increased economic activity near Arverne by the Sea, the low-lying streets along the bay are still littered with trash and spotted with sinkholes, and telephone wires dangle over sidewalks ominously. “It’s just a shame the bay front isn’t developed,” said Mike Kololyan, Mr. Reinhardt’s partner at Locals Surf School. Mr. Reinhardt said: “You go to San Diego, even Boston, and both the ocean and the bay have amazing promenades — it makes no sense. If this was Brooklyn or Manhattan, it would have been developed a long time ago.”

But there’s at least one Rockaway-based pioneer banking on the bay. David Selig, 54, a co-owner of the now-defunct Rockaway Taco, the original hipster outpost that opened 11 years ago and is credited with bringing a food scene to the peninsula, has opened Edgemere Market, a farm stand connected to a farm he partly owns on Beach 45th Street in the neighborhood of Edgemere, just east of Arverne.

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